Grow Greens - Part 2

Now that we have dipped our toes in the world of gardening we can get into specifics. I love seeing the fruits of my labor and the thought that at a moments notice, I can just step into my garden space to grab a handful of parsley or a bunch of spinach is so satisfying! So in this post we are going to talk about the 3 basic things you absolutely have to keep in mind while growing your fruits & veggies.

1) SUN

One of the key things in gardening is the exposure of sun. Most fruits and veggies need at least 6 hours of direct sun. Some may need even up to 8 hours of sun. However when you live in a hot climate like mine where the temperature goes upto 115F-120F in the summer you may want your plants to have 6 hrs or less of direct sun exposure. Most often, people look at their allotted space and think that it seems to get a lot of sun. But you may need to monitor how much sunlight a space actually gets as the sun moves from the morning to evening and take into consideration the shadow of walls or plants that may fall on that area. The shadows will hinder the direct sunlight needed and so you may not be gettin as much as you think. After planting my initial two raised beds I watched how the sun fell on that space for a whole year before I decided to add more raised beds and pots. During this time, I noticed that during the spring and summer there was one side of the space that got more sun than the other, as the shadow of the wall and the house would fall on it when the sun moved from the east to the west. During fall and winter the pattern actually changes a bit. Having a basic idea of all this will help your plant do better in the long run. If you are growing things in pots and grow bags its easy enough to move them so they get good sun exposure. Depending on the level of sun you get, you can choose different fruits and veggies to plant and get the best growth.

2) SOIL

This one took me a long time to figure out. If you are a beginner then don't be intimidated by this section. Like I mentioned in the previous post, the bags of soil that you get in the store - potting mix, raised bed mix or any other, it will all be good to grow your plant in. I knew there were so many ready-made bags in the market that I could opt for but after researching it for awhile I decided I wanted to go the route of making my own soil composition. To make it simpler I am going to list out some ingredients you need to check for in a soil mix. I use this same mix in my pots and raised beds.

- Peat Moss or Coir : The primary ingredient in most potting soils is sphagnum peat mos. Peat takes a long time to breakdown and is widely available and inexpensive. It bulks up potting mixes without adding a lot of weight, and once wet, it holds water fairly well.Sphagnum peat moss is well-draining and well-aerated, but it’s very low in available nutrients and it has an acidic pH, typically ranging between 3.5 and 4.5. Limestone is added to peat-based potting mixes to help balance the pH. Coir acts in the similar manner and has a more neutral pH and is a good substitute for peat moss. You can use what is available easily in your area.In my overall soil mix this account for 30% of the soil.

- Garden Soil :This makes up for the next bulk of your soil mix. Garden soil is topsoil enriched with compost and organic matter to make it better suited to actual plant growth.Garden soil has a mix of the native soil and I buy this because the soil in my backyard was no good. Some areas may have good garden soil with organic matter because of previous cultivation but mine was a barren land and hence I needed to use garden soil. So I usually mix peat moss and garden soil in equal measure and add the rest in smaller ratios. So this is mixed in 30% as well.

- Chicken Manure & Steer Manure :This accounts for the next 20% of my mix. You can use either one if that is all that is available in your area.Poultry manure costs more because it has a higher analysis of primary nutrients. Typically, it has about three times the nitrogen and twice the phosphate of steer manure. Since I didn't want to spend a lot and wanted benefits of both I did a mix of both.

- Vermiculite & Perlite : Perlite is a mined, volcanic rock. When it’s heated, it expands, making perlite particles look like small, white balls of Styrofoam. It holds three to four times its weight in water, increases pore space, and improves drainage. Vermiculite is a mined mineral that is conditioned by heating until it expands into light particles. It’s used to increase the porosity in the soil. Vermiculite also adds calcium and magnesium, and increases the mix’s water-holding capacity.A mix of these allows for good drainage & water retention. This forms about 10% of my soil mix

- Earthworm Castings & Fertilizer : Worm castings are rich in nutrients. They are absorbed into potting soil immediately, making nutrients available to roots right away. Unlike synthetic fertilizers or animal manure, worm castings won’t burn plant roots. They contain microorganisms that support healthy soil. They also may discourage root rot and other plant diseases, as well as provide natural resistance to pests including aphids, mealybugs, and mites. However they don't contain all the nutrients available to plants and so I mix an all-purpose Fertilizer when I make my potting soil and then during the growing period I add other fertilizers depending on the plants I am growing, such as bone meal (phosphorus) or kelp meal (potassium). This is my last ingredient and so a final 10% of this completes my soil mix.

- Compost : While compost is the most loved ingredient of a soil mix, I prefer to add this as an amendment on top of the soil once the plant is established. Compost contains billions of beneficial microbes, and with superior water-holding capacity and nutrient content and is an excellent addition to DIY potting soil. You should definitely mix it in soils which you are going to use for young plants rather than seeds because its too heavy for young seedlings.

And there you have it,the soil mix that have given me the harvests that you see in these pictures.

3) WATER

American horticulturist Liberty Hyde Bailey wrote in 1917, "the watering of plants usually exhibits the skill, or the lack of it, of the gardener. It is a practice that cannot be well explained in print." Simply put, it takes in-the-garden experience to become a watering pro. We think the easiest thing to do is just water the plants everyday but some plants actually prefer drying out between waterings. Here are somethings I found in a write-up that helped me

to cultivate a good watering technique: - Water the Roots : Focus the water only at the soil level and keep at it until the plant’s entire root ball is thoroughly soaked. The roots are probably just as wide as the plant and may be a foot or two deep. Remember to water slowly. If the soil surface is dry, water may puddle or run off and not be absorbed. The solution is to start slowly and gradually build up to a thorough soak. Once the top few inches are moist, the water will be absorbed more easily. - Check the Soil Before Watering : The best moisture meter is at the end of your hand. When the soil surface looks dry, take your finger and probe down a few inches to see if the soil is dry several inches down. If so, it’s time to water. If not, wait a day. - Water in the Morning : The best time to water your plants is in the morning. This way, if the leaves get wet, they have the entire day to dry out. It's much more difficult for plant diseases to get a foothold when the foliage is dry. If you can't water in the morning, evening is second best. - Make Every Drop Count : Use a watering wand, drip irrigation or soaker hoses to direct water right to the root zone. Watering early or late in the day minimizes moisture loss due to evaporation from the soil surface.

- Don't Overwater - Plants need oxygen as much as they need water. For most plants, it’s best to let the soil surface dry out a bit between waterings. This is especially important with plants in pots. It’s always best to water deeply and less frequently. - Don’t Let Them Go Dry : In the heat of the day, plants sometimes wilt to conserve moisture, but they should perk up again when evening comes. If you allow the soil to get too dry, the fine, hair-like projections on the ends of the roots may be damaged. - Use Mulch to Conserve Moisture : Covering the soil with a thin layer of organic mulch such as compost, shredded leaves, shredded bark or pine needles, will help reduce evaporation and minimize runoff.However ensure that the mulch is no more than an inch thick or it can work against you by preventing moisture from reaching the roots.

As you read the points above you would think its a lot to remember and I know that feeling. I used to think it's a lot of information and I don't know if I would be able to keep all this in mind. But let me assure you, that as you follow these steps little by little, it will become second nature to you. You will find yourself slowly getting a hang of things and knowing what is going right or wrong and learn from it. This space was a year in the making and there is still so much more to do. I made sure I paced myself and enjoyed the process of doing it back then and am now enjoying the harvest and joy it gives me. Believe me when I tell you, I used to have zero interest towards gardening and haven't grown anything prior to this, my family will attest to it, so if I can do it, I certainly believe you can. So here is me, ending this post with the hope that you get started on your garden soon!

Gardening is for everyone...